Day at the Quarry

Yesterday Eva and I took the baby to a tiny village in Bavaria to see the quarry/company that her grandfather owned. It was quite neat, they gave us a tour on a Jeep and everything. I couldn’t understand a lot of what our guide was telling us, but Eva translated some of it for me. I couldn’t imagine working in a quarry in BAVARIA..where they have feet and feet of snow to deal with every winter! It was neat to be in her grandfather’s office and look at all of the pictures.

After that, we went to the only place to eat in town, called something that started with a W…and, even though it was 3:30 on a Monday, this place was packed! I had a delicious pork dish with a Knödel dumpling and gravy, and then we had DESSERT.

OH. My. God. This place made the most incredible cakes I have ever seen! They had this tiny little bakery inside, and by the looks of it, people were coming in and out just to take cake away! Just like Hayes Barton. We had “Kaiserschmann”, a traditional Austrian dessert…it’s pretty much like a really fancy funnel cake with apple sauce. Fried dough and powdered sugar. But it’s much denser and creamier and it has raisins in it. We shared it, but I’m positive I consumed about 80% of it. Then, we took 5 pieces of cake home with us because they looked so amazing! Also, they had the best, most delicious, butteriest coffee I have had since being over here. I must get the name of the town and the Café so I can try to go back someday!

After lunch, Eva and I and Mucki went for a little walk around the area, and she told me about this hike from Munich to Venice through the Alps. She spent a week with her dad doing this hike several years ago, and said it was such fun, and that I should think about doing it! You hike through the Alps, and every day you plan how far you want to go, and at the end of each day you stay at these tiny little country inns, and then go to the market in town to get bread and sausage and cheese to eat for the day! All you need to bring with you is a good pair of boots and socks, underwear, a raincoat and a fleece, a camera, and a toothbrush. I was sold. I just need to find a buddy who wants to do it with me, because as cool as that would be, I don’t think it would be very safe to go alone. But apparently the inns are super cheap…around 7 euros a night for a room! Split between 2 that’s only 3.50! So for 7 days, 6 nights, you could spend only around 20 euros apiece! AMAZING. And then, you’d either end up in Munich or in VENICE. I really wish I could do the whole hike, but that takes about a month….a bit longer than I have.

Spring in Salzburg

What a funny town, Salzburg. Spring has definitely sprung, and everything is just unbelievably beautiful. The hill where the dollhouse is covered in Edelweiss and pretty blue wildflowers, and the view is topped, of course, with snow capped Alps in the distance. So scenic, yet so lonely.

The big Easter Festival opened last weekend, and Eva said her premiere was a great success! The town is really buzzing about this week, I think more people have arrived for both the festival and Easter holiday. Supposedly over here it’s not uncommon for people to take a whole week to celebrate Easter! So different from home where you get an extra day added to your weekend, if you’re lucky.

I’ve been battling with a really terrible case of homesickness…and I predicted that it would happen right about now. My German has improved so much, however it’s still not good enough to really talk to people and make friends. So I haven’t made any friends, and am really really missing the ones I have at home, not to mention my family. I also miss being comfortable in my environment, and I’ve realized that that is the thing I get most homesick for when I’ve been homesick before. I miss knowing exactly where I am in town, how to get anywhere from anywhere. I miss knowing how things work and where the grocery store is and where the closest coffee shop is, and I miss running into familiar faces. I also miss the comfort of MY house, MY bed, MY backyard…but I suppose that’s all normal.

I have to keep reminding myself that I’m in the midst of a much cooler opportunity now, by putting myself out in the world, out of my comfort zone. I know exactly what would happen to me in Raleigh, NC, and I have no clue what’s going to happen to me here. Also, I have to keep telling myself that Raleigh is ALWAYS going to be there for me when I’m ready to come back to it. And, what would I be doing if I were in Raleigh? I would be waiting tables, most likely working on some local theatre production, whining about some boy du jour that doesn’t love me….etc. There’s nothing wrong with that, however it is SO MUCH more intriguing that I’m over here in the middle of this incredible international festival, meeting all of these professionals.

Ha! Speaking of professionals, the other day I was with Eva backstage at the theatre, and Sir Simon Rattle, the conductor of the Berlin Philharmonic walks by. I have met him once before when I was with Mucki, and this time he remembered my name and greeted me with a hug and two kisses on the cheek like I was an old friend!!!! SIR SIMON RATTLE!!! I almost passed out. I also, more importantly, was overwhelmed with how lovely he was towards me, so down to earth and friendly. A star conductor like him could TOTALLY be such an asshole, but he isn’t, and I think that’s wonderful.

I’ve been going hiking every morning, because it’s BEAUTIFUL and there are all kinds of trails around our house. That’s my time to really meditate, and I also pretty much always vocalize and sing during those hikes. At first I was a little self conscious about the singing, but now I just don’t care and sing full out every morning. Surely there’s been some local who’s seen me and gotten a kick out of it.

I have been very lucky to spend some time in this corner of the world. I hope I can come back and maintain my appreciation for it.

Much Ado about Munich

This past weekend I took the train to Munich to see a lovely friend of mine, Miss Carrie Lawler! Carrie has been living in Munich since August and is also a nanny! We were both very excited to see each other, as she confirmed...it's a little difficult to make friends over here, especially when you don't speak the native language.

Carrie lives in this FABULOUS apartment in the city center of Munich, two blocks away from the grounds where they hold the Oktoberfest festival! Very exciting. She and her boyfriend, Hannes, took me around on a bike to go out in the city both Friday and Saturday night. Carrie also had an extra dirndl, the tradition German-wear with the corset/dress and apron, so we BOTH wore them around Munich! It was so much fun!!!

Friday night we met up with their friend Robin and the 4 of us ate at a very cute local Italian place....wearing out dirndls...needless to say it was an evening full of culture. Then, we moved on to have a beer at a bar called the "Schnelle Liebe" (fast love...ha!) and Robin explained to me about all of the types of beer here in Munich, the BEER CAPITAL of the world! We had a great time.

The next day, the weather was absolutely GLORIOUS! Sunny, and warm! Carrie and I went on a 3 hour walking tour of Munich and we got to hear all about the history of WW2 and how it was rebuilt after the war. We also heard a little Hitler history, and about lots and lots of Bavarian culture. I loved it! We went through the Marienplatz, saw the huge Glockenspiel (the largest working cuckoo clock in the world!), went through Frauenkirche, the open-air market, St Peter's Catherdral, Maximillian Strasse, the Opera house, and Odeonsplatz...I could bore you all the fun, wonderful history we learned, but I shan't. Now I have much more on my list for my next visit!

That afternoon, we went to see Alice in Wonderland (in ENGLISH!!) and did it the American way...3D glasses, popcorn, candy and a coke. It was divine. Loved the movie...made me feel like I was at home!

Saturday night Carrie and Hannes took me to the Hofbrauhaus, the most famous beer hall in the entire world. We had a beer in a LITER jug...amazing! Also, by the time we had finished our beer, we had made friends with our entire table of people, not to mention a large group of Belgians. Funny how that happens after a liter of beer...hmm....

What a wonderful weekend! I absolutely love Munich, the people here are very proud of their Bavarian and German heritage, and I love all of the culture here. Not to mention the history!

i really want some freakin strudel....

Sitting back in my little museum cafe...with the free internet...while Mucki is sleeping. Usually, the adorable waiter that works here gives me some strudel with my coffee, but there is a different waitress working today, and when I asked for "ein bischen Strudel, bitte?" she did not respond well. She told me that they didn't have any...and I'm not really in a position to protest. I guess it will be good for that whole trying-to-get-in-shape-for-bathing-suit-season thing.

Sunday night, I went to see "Tosca", one of my ALL-TIME favorite operas by Puccini. It's got everything you could possibly want in an opera...romance, betrayal, murder, death and destruction...the works. It also is one of the only operas I've ever seen where I don't get bored by the third act. I know that seems a bit odd...since I do love opera, but they can be dreadfully long if the pacing/acting isn't clicking. With Tosca, it's so not the case. I was completely glued to it the entire time!

The conductor, Leo Hussain, is also the assistant conductor in the production that Eva is singing in here in Salzburg, so she was able to snag me a free ticket! It was such a treat, especially since I was feeling pretty rotten on Sunday. The singing was truly wonderful, and the SET...gahhh...it was such a spectacle, the way opera is supposed to be!

After the performance, I stuck around to see if I could catch Leo to say hello, and I was successful! I was a little nervous, since I had never actually met him before...I just knew who he was, but I saw him come out of the stage door and I bravely marched right up to him to introduce myself, officially, as "Sara Abernethy, Eva Vogel's au pair.." I was lucky, he recognized me instantly and gave me a warm greeting with the kiss on both cheeks! He then was kind enough to invite me for a drink with his friend/colleague/assistant, Andrew, and since I wasn't getting picked up for another hour, I gladly went!

It was so nice to sit there and chat with two native English speakers, both Leo and Andrew are from London. I really didn't realize how much slang I use in my every-day communication until I got here and was surrounded by people who don't speak English as a first language...I've had to completely re-evaluate the way that I speak. So, it was such fun to be able to revert back to my old ways :) They were both lovely and funny and very down-to-earth, I got to ask them all kinds of great questions about the back-stage happenings of Tosca. In return, they were curious to know more about me and what how I got over here.

Yesterday, it snowed like crazy...I have never seen so much snow in my LIFE. HUGE, big chunky flakes, and you couldn't see very well in front of you. It was like a white out! Eva and I almost couldn't get out of our driveway...I had to get out and push the car so we wouldn't get stuck, and ended up falling on my face into a huge pile of snow. It was hilarious, but I was a bit wet and cold for the next hour.

After Eva's rehearsal at the Festspielhaus we went to Afro Cafe and had a coffee and some cake...afternoon coffee and cake is kind of becoming a daily ritual for Eva and I. I tell you, I don't hate it. Then, we went and had dinner with one of the other singers from Eva's production...Mischa. I had been told much about this character, Mischa, already...Russian bass/baritone, and let me tell you...he is a DUDE. It's a bit difficult to describe Mischa...just imagine an extremely tall, incessantly cocky, loud dude with a thick Russian accent wearing designer boots over his designer jeans with his designer sweater vest. Whoa.

We had a delicious dinner at this hotel restaurant that is on a lake about 3 minutes outside of the city center...we all had some kind of delicious buttery fish called, "zander" with parsley potatoes, grilled vegetables, and a crisp riesling. SUCH a treat. I can't believe Eva invited me to come along, it was very VERY kind of her. Little Mucki slept through dinner entirely, so that was good. I got my own personal taste of the dude, Mischa, and after having dinner with him, I think he is truly good at heart, he just is a little bit frivolous and isn't quite aware how lucky he is to be so successful. He said to us at dinner, scoffing almost (and of course you have to imagine the Russian accent) "Oh weyull, Evaah, I don't sing for de money anymore...I jus' don't even have to worry about money". Dude just doesn't quiiiiite get it.

Time to head back to the theatre so Mucki can have lunch...and maybe I will go find some strudel elsewhere...

Here's looking at you, Mike

Three nights ago, a dear friend of mine, Mike Sullivan, was killed in a car accident by a drunk driver.

Mike and I worked together at Nantucket in Chapel Hill. He was such a wonderful guy, a good apple to the core. Always loved making everyone feel included, and a true team player.

I found out yesterday through an email...and here I am sitting in the Festspielhaus wishing I could be at home for just one day. I thought it might be a good way to honor him by writing a little tribute.

Mike really loved film, and was a huge movie buff. There was rarely one that he missed in the theatres...his all-time favorite was Casablanca. He and I were basketball buddies, there were several occasions where we would pick up food from the Q-shack or Cook Out and settle at one of our apartments to watch the Tar Heels kick some butt. My best memories of Mike definitley involved delicious fried food and Tar Heel victory.

Mike was also a deeply religious young man. I hope his soul finds rest where it may.

How many lives will be lost before people realize how dangerous driving under the influence is? There is always an alternative to getting behind the wheel when you aren't in a condition to operate it. Always. It is a tragedy to have lost such a wonderful young man at such a young age.

It was an honor to have him as a part of my life, and he has only enriched it for the better.

ramblings

Still completely covered in snow outside…although it is very pretty, I am definitely ready for spring.

Yesterday, Mucki and I took a walk through the Altstadt again…I’m really starting to get very acquainted with it. It’s really lovely, cobblestone streets devoted entirely to pedestrians, a fresh produce market in front of Mozart’s Geburthaus, and tiny little alleys hidden here and there. There’s a ton of tourist crap for sale everywhere, but every now and then there’s a place that sells really beautiful jewelry or a music store, or a nice café. It’s more difficult than I anticipated to do in depth exploring with a stroller…especially through the really small alleyways. Most stores also have entry ways that include steps, and adding trying to open a door and fitting myself plus a stroller into a tiny shop where I won’t end up buying anything anyway…is not really worth my time or embarrassment.

It’s interesting, people do look at me kind of funny…like, “why is this young chick pushing a stroller around the Altstadt of Salburg? Is that actually her kid?” But…that certainly is the least of my worries.

Yesterday, Mucki and I went into the Museum Rupertinum, where they had an exhibit featuring Thöny, and Austrian modern artist I had never heard of. His work consisted of sketches, watercolors and some paintings, and it was absolutely wonderful. Each medium he used reflected a different side of the artist…I only wish I had known more background information about the artist before going to the exhibit…a good rule of thumb to have, I think. There were several skyline scenes of Paris, Marseilles, and New York, so it was apparent he had spent some time in those places. It was also very clear that he had studied impressionism as well as a bit of surrealism, his sketches were very representative of Munch and Klimt.

I feel so sophisticated to be able to come to conclusions like that…it seems my art history class paid off!

After walking through the exhibit, I went to the Museum café, called Spoon, and had a coffee…the primary appeal was that they had free internet…and since I don’t have internet at the Dollhouse, it was perfect.

Today, Mucki and I are spending the day at home in the Dollhouse, as Eva has rehearsal from 2-4 and then again from 7-8:30…it was too much trouble to bring both of us along for such a long period of time. But Christoph comes home tonight, so that’s wonderful…it’s always nice when the whole family is together.

Eva and I have had some very good conversations the past couple of nights…mostly me just picking her brain about being a professional artist and how that type of career works. So many female singers sacrifice having a family so that they can devote everything to their careers…and I’m pretty sure I don’t want that. I’ve learned that even though Eva is 34, and just had her first baby, that she is just now breaking into a real career. This is just the beginning for her, although she’s already made some fantastic contacts, like Sir Simon Rattle, and is singing with some pretty famous people, like Ben Heppner…and she’s already started her family. Eva explained to me how lonely it can be, something which I already sort of knew from working at the agency two summers ago. These singers travel all the time for their engagements, and sure, there’s the euphoria you have when you’ve just sung a wonderful performance and the whole audience is clapping for you, looking at you, etc. You maybe get some flowers, have a few chats backstage with your castmates…and then

“You exit out the stage door into some back alley way, or dark dirty street, go back to your hotel alone, make a call to your loved one (if you’re lucky to have a loved one) and then…that’s it. Once you’re off the stage, you’re alone, and that’s a very difficult lifestyle”

A very important thing to keep in mind as I’m deciphering how I want to proceed with my music. But looking at Eva, she’s not alone. Sure, Christoph is gone Monday through Wednesday, but she has a husband and a child to come home to here in Salzburg, and at home in Dusseldorf there’s her dad, her brother, and a whole community of friends. And Eva is just starting everything in her career!

Another dude I met, Gert, a bass singing with Eva at the festival, started his solo career at the age of 40. Now, 15 years later, he lives in Cologne and sings everywhere in the world, the Met, Scala, EVERYWHERE! But, then again, to be a dude in opera and to be a woman in opera is a completely different process.

In conclusion, if my career doesn’t start until I’m 35…then that means I have time to get a little family started beforehand. But then, how do you balance raising and running a family with singing and traveling all the time?

I love to sing, and I know I want to have music as a part of my life. I also know that I don’t mind being alone, but I don’t want to live my life alone. I thrive when I feel like I’m a part of a community, a family. That’s why I have devoted so much time to being a part of a cast in shows at home, because it feels so tight-knit, and we’re working together as a team to create something to share with the community…that’s what I loved so much about performing. I know that at some point, I will want to have a family, because I don’t want to come home to nothing at the end of the day. If singing becomes my full-time work, then it will be my work. When I come home, what will there be?

However, first things first. I can’t go into too much detail about planning anything, because my plans probably wouldn’t even work out anyway. The only thing I can benefit from at present is to learn some German and keep asking questions!

Interesting: There have been several things that Eva says she will sing, but not for several years…roles like Carmen, Dalila, etc. Now she’s singing smaller roles in big works. I guess that’s how you do it?

It's snowing!

I woke up this morning and it was snowing outside! Like, the perfect kind of snow...delicate and light, and there was a silence and peacefulness that rested over everything! I felt like a kid again...awesome.

It really is bloody freezing here, but its not so bad if there's some beautiful snow to coat everything in! I just hope this means the pipes don't freeze in our little country dollhouse...

Off to walk the baby in the snow!

Salzburg

Today is my third day in the lovely city of Salzburg...city of Mozart, schnitzel, and the Sound of Music...

Day #1 was certainly eventful, Nepomuk and I went for a walk through the Altstadt. We stopped in the Dom, which was truly unbelievable. The facade was so huge that I couldn't even fit it in my camera lens! The inside was breath-taking...lots of Baroque action going on. Apparently, it had been rebuilt a few times due to a couple of fires and bombings during the war. But what a space! Hard to believe that people actually go to mass there. I lit a candle for my mom and for little Nepomuk.

Then, I had the afternoon all to myself...I stumbled around a bit before I found the lift to the Museum Moderne, which I gladly checked out. They were hosting an exhibit from the Winterhum Museum in Switzerland, and unfortunately, I think I went through the entire exhibit, ranging from current American and Italian art installations to Impressionism...backwards. It was clear that when I was nearing the end of my tour, that the Impressionist works were supposed to be first...and that I, being the viewer, was supposed to move chronologically. Oh well. I suppose it was a "choice" to move back in time...but I did see some marvelous works by van Gogh, Picasso, Klee, Monet, Sisley, Rodin and Giacometti, to say the very least!

Then, I stumbled my way from the Museum, which sits on a cliff overlooking Salzburg, to the Fortress! It was quite a workout and starting to get dark, so I didn't stick around too long.

Currently, I'm in the Festspielhaus with little Nepomuk waiting for Eva to finish her Gotterdammerung rehearsal...I can hear the singing through the door. It's pretty unbelievable that I get to be here, in the middle of all of this! I get to actually see how the process is done!